Day 1
Ryde to Cowes
10.9 miles Alternative Route
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| Follow the blue Coastal Path sign |
We met our Wight Wanders representative at 9.15am and sat in the sunshine for a quick briefing on the Isle of Wight Coastal Path and were given laminated maps and notes about the walk. Our rep suggested that instead of taking the shorter route and visiting Osborne House we should do the longer (by about 3 miles) alternative route as there wasn't sufficient time to do justice to Queen Victoria's country retreat. That suited us both.
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| Our first accommodation, Appley Manor Hotel, Ryde |
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| Ready for the off! |
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| Looking over to the mainland |
Handing over our luggage, which Wight Wanders would transport between hotels, we left the Appley Manor Hotel and walked out of Ryde, passing Binstead Church and following the road to the old Quarr Abbey, which has an inviting tea room. We sat outside and enjoyed coffee and scones then admired the abbey's pigs (with whom we had something in common!) before setting off again. We had just passed a sign 'Foxwood' when a fox walked calmly across the road in front of us, slowly but too quick for my camera.
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| Ryde Harbour |
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| Hovercraft at Ryde |
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| Approaching Binstead |
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| Binstead Church |
We passed through Fishbourne where there is a car ferry terminal and left the shorter Coastal Path route at Wootton Bridge. We walked through through a woodland burial ground (a nice place to reserve a plot) and passing through a gate saw a Victorian ice house, apparently once the 'in thing' for large houses.
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| At Quarr Abbey |
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| "It says there's a tea room!" |
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| Coffee at Quarr Abbey |
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| Residents at the Abbey |
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| Crossing harbour at Fishbourne |
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| Reading about the ice house |
We crossed and re-crossed a railway line and reached Island Harbour, where we sat outside the Bistro enjoying a sandwich and beer while looking across at the marina and being entertained by an accomplished singer guitarist. Eventually we set off to cross the Medina Estuary by a lock. It had been drawn back to allow a couple of yachts to pass through and we waited with a couple of less patient walkers who grumbled at the time the boats were taking to reach us. The yachts sailed through, the lock keeper closed the bridge again and we crossed to follow our track by the water's edge to reach the Folly Pub on the far side.
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| Lunch at Island Harbour Bistro |
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| Waiting for the yachts to pass |
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| Walking towards The Folly pub |
We rejoined the main route in Whippingham, which was not as racy as its name and soon passed the entrance to Osborne House. Whippingham seemed to blend into Cowes and we arrived at the Chain Ferry, which is the only way to cross from East to West Cowes at this point. Apparently the alternative is a long drive round the inlet, residents say there has been talk of a bridge for many years. The ferry is free for foot passengers (it does take a small number of cars) and is a very efficient way of crossing the short distance between the banks. One can hear but not see the chains working. Foot passengers are first on and first off.
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| The Chain Ferry crosses towards us |
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| Waiting to board |
We then had only a stride to go to reach our accommodation for the night, a smart B and B called The Anchorage, where we gratefully removed our boots and availed ourselves of the tea making facilities in the lovely, seaside inspired room.
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| Outside The Anchorage |
Later we had an excellent meal in a small restaurant called the Red Duster, recommended by our landlord. A good start to our Coastal Path walk.
