Showing posts with label "isle of wight coastal path" hiking trekking "coastal walk" "isle of wight". Show all posts
Showing posts with label "isle of wight coastal path" hiking trekking "coastal walk" "isle of wight". Show all posts



Day 2    

Cowes to Yarmouth

16.8 miles

 

Breakfast at The Anchorage was as good as it gets, with everything cooked to perfection.   We anticipated a long day so set off by 9.15am.  After the hustle and bustle of yesterday's walk today was very quiet and we were mainly alone on the path.  We walked out of Cowes along the promenade passing first the ferry terminal and then the Royal Yacht Squadron with its cannons aiming out to sea, at the island's most northerly point.  

 
Cowes promenade

Attractive house at Cowes



The Royal Yacht Squadron

Cannons at Egypt Point

 

We soon reached a point where it's necessary to take a diversion from the original path owing to coastal erosion, of which we would later see much evidence.   This involved a section of tarmac walking, however, early in the day and in lovely weather this was no great problem and we soon found ourselves heading towards Thorness Bay.

 

Mining?! Didn't really have that in mind....

Guardian at the stile - I send Carole on ahead with gift

Negotiations successfully concluded

It was easy!
Diversions clearly signed

Thorness Bay

 

By now it was getting towards our coffee time and I was getting restless wondering where we would find a cafe.  We wandered through Thorness Bay holiday village and we were in luck, good coffee, although sadly no scones.  Setting off refreshed our path left the coast and we had another section of tarmac walking.  We passed through the villages of Porchfield and Clamerkin and reached Shalfleet where the New Inn provided an excellent ploughman's lunch.


Weathervanes at Clamerkin





Pretty thatch cottage at Clamerkin



Wildflowers everywhere




Quite a lot of tarmac today....

   
... and some indistinct field paths






We sat at an outside table and had a very pleasant lunch, enjoying our first taste of Isle of Wight creamy blue cheese.


Ploughmans at Shalfleet



    Where shall we begin?






Leaving the pub we had another stretch on tarmac and turned into fields where we saw two hares playing.  There are many sections of the walk where what was once arable land has been returned to meadow and these areas are bright with wild flowers.  Also road verges have not been cut back and have many varieties of wild flowers such as red campion, trefoil, ox eye daisy, clover and many others.





There is an option after Shalfleet to reduce the walk by 2.8 miles and we were tempted but very glad we resisted as it turned out to be one of the nicest parts of the walk.  The path snakes back east to return to the coast and the views, colours and interesting coast line full of creeks to be crossed and wide seascapes should not be missed.  The weather made it a delight although it would have charm at any time.


Walking towards Hampstead Quay




Hampstead Quay











Emerging onto the beach at Hampstead Point we were surprised to see quite a large fish, dead but perfect, lying in the surf. We speculated that it might be a type of shark and we have since learned from an angler friend that it was indeed a young porbeagle shark.


Descending to Hampstead Point





A porbeagle Shark

We now walked parallel to the beach for quite a while and at one time were surrounded by pink sea thrift carpeting the way.


Walking through a carpet of sea thrift






A memorial to the side commemorated two young men who had been lost at sea two years apart in the 1930s.


1930s memorial to two boys, drowned at sea two years apart




We were glad of the board walk across a marshy bit


Walking towards Yarmouth there were many signs of coastal erosion, sudden clefts in the path and black skeletal trees lying in the water, roots and all where they had been carried into the sea by landslip.



Coastal erosion

The path moved slightly inland for a while before returning to the coast and descending to a small shingle beach where we turned left to follow the shore.  Our route took us through a wood where we saw signs saying Bouldner Forest Coastal Path and then along the sea wall to Yarmouth.



Carole on the sea wall near Yarmouth

Our day ended in the square at Yarmouth where we found The Bugle, our accommodation for the night. We entered gratefully and sank a couple of pints of Timothy Taylor Landlord.  It had been a long day but a good one.


Ready for a pint
                                                                                   To Day 3



Day 3 

Yarmouth to Freshwater Bay

9.2 miles




Today was bright and very breezy as we set out from Yarmouth along the sea wall.  The day was cool and we stopped to don our jackets. The path took us into Fort Victoria Country Park and for some time we followed an old military road through the woodland from Fort Victoria to Cliff End Battery.



Yarmouth Harbour

Following the sea wall

Carole makes a friend in Fort Victoria Country Park

Unusual blossom

We emerged from the trees to the coast and looking right could see the imposing block of Fort Victoria.  As we walked along we met a local walking his dog and he cheerfully pointed out details of the coast and channels, which he knew from yachting.  Like all Isle of Wight locals we met, he was friendly and helpful and wanted us to enjoy his island.

A little further on we walked down the access road to Brambles Chine Holiday Camp and reached a waterfront cafe where we stopped for coffee and scones, sheltered from the breeze by glass panels.
We then walked along the coast for a while, through Colwell Bay and then along the sea wall to Totland.  

The narrowest part of the Solent

Impressive Fort Victoria
 
Arriving at Brambles Chine Holiday Camp

Hurrying towards a waterfront cafe for coffee at Totland

We now followed a meandering path upwards to the open area of Headon Warren, so called because it used to be a farmed rabbit warren in the middle ages.  We walked over the Warren to the summit of Headon Hill, choosing our path from several overgrown and indistinct paths, until we descended to a main road and turned right to Alum Bay.  All of a sudden we were among dozens of coach tourists and we quickly walked on away from the pleasure park, our path climbing to higher ground where we had a view over to The Needles for the first time and looking back a good view of the cliffs at Alum Bay.  


Sign on Headon Warren


First view of The Needles

The Needles

Alum Bay

We ascended the white cliffs towards the Needles, across the down and passed some coastguard cottages.  This is a very exposed point and the cottages were protected by tree planting that almost hid them from view on the coastal facing side.  We wandered down to look at the old batteries now managed by the National Trust, then climbed back to look at the new batteries where there was a free exhibition devoted to a secret rocket development project from the '60s.  We enjoyed the exhibition and had another coffee before climbing back to the top of the Down, where a wide green expanse straddles the sea on either side.  

Drawing at the New Battery

How the New Battery looks today

Japanese tourists take a selfie

The Needles from the other side

We walk down for a look around

From The Needles Viewpoint

It was easy to aim for the Tennyson Monument standing out against the skyline, and from here to continue down to our destination, Seahorses Guest House in Freshwater Bay.  As there was limited choice in this area Wight Wanders had kindly booked us into a local pub for our evening meal, The Red Lion, and this proved to be a good choice as we had a good meal in relaxing surroundings.



Carole in front of Tennyson Monument

Nicely worded memorial at the monument

Walking along the down to Freshwater Bay

Freshwater Bay

Seahorses, excellent accommodation for the night